Irons was definitely my favorite surfer. He was everything every surfer wanted to be. Intense, talented, ripped abs and passionate. Irons was a legend in the surf.
Unfortunately he was not only addicted to fun, but succumbed to drugs in search of peace with his inner demons.
Irons came off as a very intense human being. I believe you need to be intense to be talented... Intensely driven to find your passion; meaning in life. To follow your call, never give up, always rise when you fall - like a cat you lick your wounds and then get back up.
When you are passionate you tend to connect with your senses. You have a hunger for more that yearns to be satisfied. You hunger for the flavors of life... but if you eat too many bitter flavors, it leaves you sick.
Intensity without balance is a one-way ticket to self-destruction.
Turn off the music at the bottom of the right side bar before watching this clip.
Reference:
Reference:
http://www.tmz.com/2011/06/10/andy-irons-surfer-death-dallas-texas-medical-examiner-report-heart-disesase-cocaine-methadone/
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